Why Onomichi Stands Apart
Onomichi (尾道市), a compact city in eastern Hiroshima Prefecture, occupies a narrow strip of land between forested hills and the waters of the Seto Inland Sea. Unlike many Japanese cities that have been substantially rebuilt since the postwar era, Onomichi retains much of its original townscape: narrow stone-paved lanes, wooden merchant houses, cats sleeping on sun-warmed walls, and 25 temples reachable on foot from the train station.
The city has long attracted artists, writers, and filmmakers. Director Yasujirō Ozu filmed several classics here, and the town's textures have inspired generations of Japanese storytellers. Today it is equally celebrated as the western gateway to the Shimanami Kaidō cycling and ferry route.
The Temple Walk (寺めぐり)
Onomichi's famous temple walk winds up the hillside behind the city, connecting a string of ancient Buddhist temples with sweeping views over the sea. The full circuit takes two to three hours at a leisurely pace.
- Senkōji (千光寺) — The centerpiece of the walk, perched high on Mt. Senkōji, accessible by ropeway or foot trail. The panorama over the inland sea is exceptional at dusk.
- Jōdoji (浄土寺) — A nationally designated Important Cultural Property with a striking two-story pagoda and tranquil garden.
- Tenneiji (天寧寺) — Features a three-story pagoda that frames perfectly against the rooftops below.
The Waterfront and Honmachi
Along the seafront promenade, traditional kura (stone warehouses) have been converted into cafés, galleries, and small guesthouses. The Onomichi Shotengai (商店街), a covered shopping arcade running parallel to the shore, is one of the most authentic such arcades remaining in western Japan — a blend of longtime local shops and carefully curated new businesses.
The ferry pier at the base of the town offers connections to Mukaishima Island across a narrow 200-meter channel — the smallest but in some ways most charming ferry crossing in the entire inland sea region.
Food and Local Specialties
Onomichi is nationally famous for its distinct regional ramen style. Onomichi Ramen (尾道ラーメン) features a flat, slightly chewy noodle in a soy-based broth enriched with small-fish stock (iriko dashi) and finished with a spoonful of back-fat — a style that has changed little in decades.
Beyond ramen, local highlights include:
- Takowasa — Raw octopus marinated in wasabi, a classic izakaya snack from the inland sea fishing tradition
- Hassaku mikan — A bittersweet citrus variety grown on nearby islands, used in sweets and drinks throughout the city
- Konomono — Local pickled vegetables sold at small shops along the temple walk
Getting to Onomichi
| Origin | Route | Approx. Time |
|---|---|---|
| Hiroshima | JR San'yō Main Line | ~75 minutes |
| Osaka (Shin-Osaka) | Shinkansen to Fukuyama + local | ~90 minutes |
| Tokyo | Shinkansen to Fukuyama + local | ~4 hours |
Where to Stay
Onomichi has seen a flourishing of thoughtfully restored guesthouses in recent years. Many are housed in renovated machiya (townhouses) or former kura, offering a genuine experience of staying in the old town fabric. Booking several weeks in advance is advisable for weekend stays, particularly during the warmer months.
Day Trip or Overnight?
Onomichi rewards those who stay. The early morning mist over the sea, the sound of temple bells, and the unhurried pace of the town are best appreciated after the day-trippers have returned to Hiroshima or Osaka. If your schedule allows, plan for at least one night.